Wednesday 8th March
Then off to Costa Rica. The trip to the border was uneventful. The border was the usual chaos, but possibly more ordered than usual. We changed some money and then had to carry our bags across no-mans land to the Costa Rican side. We hired a man with a large box on his tricycle to transport ours to Costa Rican Immigration.
Our Costa Rican guide had not yet turned up - he had been held up by a traffic jam. So we had to wait a bit, but he soon appeared.
Bernie,and Alexis, the driver, were much more professional than their Nicaraguan counterparts. Bernies descriptions were much more frequent than Walter's had been - I couldn't listen to my audiobook because of their frequency! After bribing our way through a threatened customs inspection, we drove to Liberia where we had lunch. Despite the area being cattle country my fajitas were a bit leathery. But the highlight of the lunch for some was watching the first half of the Arsenal - Real Madrid live from a cold wet London. Apparently it ended in a draw..
Soon after that we left the hot dry plains of the coast (dry season, sandstones) and headed for the cooler, wetter, volcanic, highlands of Monteverde.
The roads were fine until we were 35 km from Monteverde, where they became a lot rougher and steeper. It was first and second gear work all the way from there.
The scenery was almost Scottish Highlands in character, although volcanic cones in the distance are not a frequent sight in North Britain. The place is very touristy but seems to be trying to keep itself from the worst excesses of tourism. There is the difficulty of getting in - Those Roads! and it seems to sell itself on the eco-friendly nature of the tourism.
Eventually we got to the Cloud Forest Lodge which proved to be a very pleasant place. There is a building for reception and restaurant and the rooms are little semi-detached cottages a bit further up the hill.
Back down for dinner which was very promptly served. The highlight was the folding of the serviettes - long necked birds!
Thursday 9th March
This was a wonderful day. It started with breakfast and a slow drive to the Santa Elena Nature reserve, which is run by the local secondary school.
It was fascinating to walk through cloud forest and see all the various plants. The whole area is very steep. It is on the Continental Divide and very wet. Everything is covered in mosses and ferns and a whole host of other plants. Many of these are the progenitors of our common house plants.
It was disapointing that we did not see many animals (one centipede!) but it was an illuminating walk.
Then down to the the place for the Zip rides. These started at 2 so we spent the time looking at hummingbirds and trying to photograph them and having lunch.
Then we had to sign our lives away and be equipped with harness, hard hat and gloves for the rides. Mini-bus to the start and walk to their training rope where we were told the ropes.
Then the first zip ride. This is a steel rope stretched between two trees. You are attached to it by a safety line and a pulley wheel. You roll from one tree to the other at high speed and in very exposed circumstances.
Chris was very pleased with herself - not only was she the first to go along the first zip ride, but she was the first to jump off the Tarzan swing, replacing someone who did not feel himself equipped to be the first to jump. Then back to the Lodge for another good meal.
HERE are some photos from Monteverde.
Friday 9th March
We set off to drive to La Fortuna near the Arenal volcano. As the crow flies it is about fifteen miles, but as the bus went it is nearer fifty five. We had to drive along the south side of the lake, to the dam which forms the Arenal Lake and then back along the north shore. When we got to the dam we got out and walked a mile or so along a dirt road to see what we could see. That included many exotic birds, coatimundi monkeys aof some description and many butterflies.
We then carried on and passed close under the Arenal volcano. This has lava flows coming down the mountain. These don't look very spectacular in daylight but, apparently, are worth seeing at night. As we got closer to La Fortuna we passed various spas which utilise the abundant hot water springs which surround the Arenal volcano.
Arenal on Google Earth - note the red of the lava in the crater!
La Fortuna is a creation of the volcano. It utilises what the volcano provides in order to turn a fast dollar. There are hotels galore. None of those in town seem to compare with the hotels we have stayed in so far. The hotel we stayed in seemed pleasant enough but was by no means memorable.
And some of the newer hotels seem to be very close to the volcano. They have a wonderful view but I wouldn't like to be around them when the volcano has a big sneeze.
We lunched across the main road from the hotel and then were taken to a rather spectacular waterfall on the La Fortuna river. It was a steep walk down to the pools where the waterfall hits the bottom and we were able to swim in the wonderful water. We had the only rain of the whole trip as we swum in the loveley water. Then it was a long slog back up to the top of the gorge.
In the evening we drove back to the volcano to see if we could see the lava flows coming down the mountain, but it was cloudy and misty and we saw nothing - just other tourists who were doing the samr thing.
However the evening was not a disappointment. We went to one of the spas and sampled the pleasures available. Thes included lovely pools of water ranging in temperature from 63 degrees C down to about 35 degrees C. None of the pools were really big enough to have a proper swim in but you could splash about to ones hearts content. There were lots of hot water waterfalls. And best of all there was a bar where one could have a very nice Pina Colada as one sat in water of blood heat. We had a rather nice supper afterwards. And so home to bed.
HERE are some photos from Arenal
Saturday 10th March
This was a day of travel. And wonder at the animal spotting skills of Bernie. We would be driving along, Bernie would say something to Alexis and the bus would stop. Out we would jump and be directed to look at some undistinguished lump which would slowly reveal itself to be a sloth or a macaw or some other animal worthy of our gaze. Bernie must have fantastic eyes - and an ability to judge where animals are likely to be.
We stopped in Orotina where they were having a fruit festival - mangos, paw paws, soursops, melons, cashews. Chris was in her element!
Eventually we got onto the coast road and headed south along the Pacific. We crossed one of the rivers and saw a score or so of Crocodiles. Remarkably large beasties. Glad they were in the river and I was on the bridge. Got to the hotel in Manuel Antonio - the Hotel California - (run by the Eagles, or perhaps the Scarlet Rumped Tanagers) and settled in.
Off to the beach for a quick swim. Hired some sun loungers and fell asleep. I saw a huge V of pelicans heading south along the coast, but Chris was fast asleep.
Sampled happy hour at a beach bar, home, changed and back to the beach for a nice group meal.
Sunday 11th March
Last night various of the younger members of the party went round the bars and were not present at breakfast or when the bus set off for Manuel Antonio Nature Reserve. Which was a pity as they missed seeing lots of birds and beasties.
There is no such thing a disabled access to the Nature Reserve. You wade a shallow river, climb over some rough rocks and eventually get to the ticket booth. We were quite early but already there was a steadytrickle of people being led round by local guides, each of whom had his badge of office - a large telescope on a tripod. By some means or other they gather a retinue then lead them round showing and naming the beasts of the field and the birds of the air. They are able to name everything and I am sure that most of the names are correct but it must be a great temptation to make sure that there is something for them to point their telescopes at. One wonders whether there are any stuffed sloths, nailed high in a distant tree so that the guides can justify their fee. Because it is the tropics and the animals do not move much during the day, the first reconnaisance must be the important one. You find where the animals are then you revisit them during the day.
Berny was his usual eagle-eyed self. I am sure none of his animals were stuffed! We spotted various birds, sloths, ant eaters, monkeys and had the usual barrage of information.
HERE are some photos of Manuel Antonio
After a couple of hours we went off on our own and walked round the tombolo. But the only animals we saw (except for tourists) were multi-coloured land crabs. We swam a little, went into the town, had a very slow lunch (we arrived just after a large party of American schoolkids), went back to the beach in the park, swam some more in the warm water, back to town for happy hour, got a lift back to the hotel from Berny and Alexis, back to a hotel for a farewell meal. And so to bed.
Monday 12th March
An interesting day. A long drive to San Juan airport. Farewell to Berny, Alexis, Lorna and Anna. Chaotic check in for the flight to Houston, delayed flight, realisation that we were a bit short of time for transfer to the London flight. A great rush through immigration and security at Houston - I remember rushing with my shoe laces flapping (shoes are X-rayed) holding up my trousers - I had a metal belt buckle which meant Icould not get through the metal detector with it on - to the London flight check in. Thankfully the flight had been delayed - possibly for us and we got on board.
Tuesday 13th March
We got to Gatwick in reasonably good condition. We said goodbye to all the others and made our way home. All went as it should and it was good to be home.